style of culinary standards as “uncompromising.” Garlic pretzels and a shellfish stew of PEI mussels speak to his New England upbringing, while Hamachi sashimi starters and mains such as California lamb sugo allude to his time near the Pacific. The result is a delicate balance between two worlds—old and new. A word of advice: Dabble in both.

A must-try when dining at Absinthe is Keough’s famed garlic pretzels with Vermont cheddar mornay sauce. Piled high in a pyramid, the pretzel sticks came out hot and draped lightly in garlic butter. For a traditional French snack, the kitchen serves a hearty slice of country pâté. Made of pork, duck liver and duck confit, the pâté is thick—dense almost. Spread it over sweet batard toasts and enjoy with the adjoining crisp, pickled vegetables.

A bowl of the ultra-savory coq au vin is a taste of Old France. The plate is plentiful, full of burgundy-braised chicken and succulent, stock-soaked vegetables. The dark, meaty wine-infused sauce is delicious when soaked up by the french fries or bread. Keogh sticks tight to tradition for this classic dish.

Conversely, with the Arctic char entrée, Keough takes another well-known French dish, the salade niçoise, and turns it on its head. Half the plate holds perfectly cooked fish, topped with fried

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This article was published:
Throwback Issue - Released May 2012
Issue 4 / Version 2 | Buy print copy here
Issue 11
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